Frequently Asked Questions
Please select the appliance you may have questions about.
Q: What is the difference between a drop-in cooktop and a slide-in cooktop?
A: Both drop-in cooktops and slide-in cooktops can be used in an island, peninsula or a traditional setting. The main difference is that a drop-in cooktop will have the controls on the top while the slide-in will have them on the front. A slide-in cooktop will require special installation.
Q: What is a BTU and how do I know when I should use high or low BTUs?
A: A BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1˚F. BTUs are used as a measurement of the heating power of gas cooktops or ovens. To decide how much BTU capacity you’d like in your appliance, consider the following:
- The higher the BTU capacity, the hotter the cooktop or oven can get. For everyday cooking, 9,000 BTUs is generally sufficient.
- If you plan to do a lot of high-heat cooking—such as sautéing or stir-frying—you might find that you want 12,000 BTUs or more. Commercial burners can be as high as 20,000 BTUs, and some designed for home use can have 15,000 BTUs. With that kind of heat, you can bring eight quarts of water to a boil in six minutes.
- You may also want a higher degree of precision for low-heat cooking. Some burners, for example, can go down to 5,000 BTUs and cycle on and off, allowing you to simmer a dish without scorching it.
- Consider cooking surfaces with various burner and/or element configurations to offer you the greatest degree of flexibility in your cooking.
Q: How do I know if my cookware is compatible with an induction cooktop?
A: For cookware to work on an induction surface, it must be magnetic and have a completely flat bottom. In general, most stainless steel and cast iron cookware will work. Here’s a simple test: Try sticking a magnet to the bottom of your pan. If the magnet sticks, that cookware should work; if it doesn’t, most likely the cookware is not compatible with an induction cooktop surface.
Q: What does Real Stainless Steel mean?
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
Q: Why does the surface light indicate “On” after I’ve turned off my cooktop?
A: The light will stay on until the cooktop has cooled down.
Q: How do I clean my burners/elements?
A: Keep your burner components clean by using a mild nongranular cleaner, such as ammonia or a degreaser. This will ensure that the gas ports do not get blocked. When putting the parts back together, always make sure the burners and caps are level and firmly set in place.
Q: What is convection cooking? What are the benefits?
A: Convection cooking is cooking with the added advantage of airflow circulation, which allows for a more even distribution of heat. By using the forced flow of hot air, convection cooking produces the following benefits:
- Cooking time is approximately 25-30% faster than conventional ovens, saving energy.
- The more even distribution of heat results in food that is more evenly baked.
- Generally, less heat is required than with a conventional oven—a convection oven usually cooks at 25°F below a conventional oven’s required temperature.
Q: What does Real Stainless Steel mean?
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
Q: What should I do if my oven is cooking too slowly or too fast?
A: You can check the actual oven temperature with an oven thermometer, then compare that reading to the setting on the oven’s control. If there is a significant difference, some models will let you adjust the oven temperature. Instructions for doing this can be found in your owner’s manual, under “Adjusting Oven Temperature.”
Q: Is it normal for the oven’s fan to run after the oven has been turned off?
A: Yes, this is normal. The fan stays on in order to help cool the oven.
Q: What does it mean if the oven display is flashing codes that I’m not familiar with?
A: These codes mean that the oven’s electronic control has detected a condition it needs to check. When you see a code, follow these steps:
- Press STOP/CLEAR to clear the display and stop the beeping.
- Reprogram the oven.
- If the code still displays, turn off the power to the oven at your breaker box and wait five minutes to turn it back on.
If the code is still displayed after you’ve followed these steps, contact your local authorized service provider.
Q: How do I set my oven to self clean?
A: To self clean your oven, follow these simple steps:
- Remove the oven racks.
- Set your oven control to clean.
- Select a cleaning time or choose a cleaning level: light, medium, or heavy soiled. For typical cleaning needs, we recommend that you select a cleaning time of three hours or choose the medium soiled setting.
- Select Start. (To set a delayed start, see your use and care manual.)
Note: For safety reasons, the over door will remain locked until the oven cools down. When it is sufficiently cool, the door will automatically unlock.
Q: How do I keep my racks gliding smoothly?
A: To keep your oven racks gliding smoothly when you’re removing or inserting them, we recommend applying cooking oil along their outer edges.
Q: What is the difference between a slide-in range and a freestanding range?
A: A slide-in range is designed to slide in and fit flush with your countertop. This is ideal for an island peninsula, and can also be used in a regular setting to showcase a decorative backsplash. With a slide-in range, cooktop and oven controls are at the front of the appliance. A freestanding range is used in traditional installations (against the kitchen wall), and typically has a backsplash with a clock and controls that are on the front, the top, or the backsplash.
Q: What is the difference between a drop-in cooktop and a slide-in cooktop?
A: Both drop-in cooktops and slide-in cooktops can be used in an island, peninsula or a traditional setting. The main difference is that a drop-in cooktop will have the controls on the top while the slide-in will have them on the front. A slide-in cooktop will require special installation.
Q: What is a BTU and how do I know when I should use high or low BTUs?
A: A BTU is the amount of heat required to raise the temperature of one pound of water 1˚F. BTUs are used as a measurement of the heating power of gas cooktops or ovens. To decide how much BTU capacity you’d like in your appliance, consider the following:
- The higher the BTU capacity, the hotter the cooktop or oven can get. For everyday cooking, 9,000 BTUs is generally sufficient.
- If you plan to do a lot of high-heat cooking—such as sautéing or stir-frying—you might find that you want 12,000 BTUs or more. Commercial burners can be as high as 20,000 BTUs, and some designed for home use can have 15,000 BTUs. With that kind of heat, you can bring eight quarts of water to a boil in six minutes.
- You may also want a higher degree of precision for low-heat cooking. Some burners, for example, can go down to 5,000 BTUs and cycle on and off, allowing you to simmer a dish without scorching it.
- Consider cooking surfaces with various burner and/or element configurations to offer you the greatest degree of flexibility in your cooking.
Q: How do I know if my cookware is compatible with an induction cooktop?
A: For cookware to work on an induction surface, it must be magnetic and have a completely flat bottom. In general, most stainless steel and cast iron cookware will work. Here’s a simple test: Try sticking a magnet to the bottom of your pan. If the magnet sticks, that cookware should work; if it doesn’t, most likely the cookware is not compatible with an induction cooktop surface.
Cookware made of aluminum, copper, or glass is not compatible with an induction cooktop. In addition, some types of stainless steel may not work on an induction surface, or may heat very slowly.
Q: What does Real Stainless Steel mean?
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
Q: My gas range was recently installed, but only the oven is working—not the burners. What should I do?
A: Each gas range has a shut-off valve, which supplies gas to the surface burners. To check that this valve is open and working, follow these steps:
- Remove the lower drawer.
- Locate the shut-off valve in the right rear of the drawer compartment.
- Check that the tab of the shut-off valve is facing toward the right.
When the tab on the valve is facing right, your range should work.
Q: Why does the surface light indicate “On” after I’ve turned off my cooktop?
A: The light will stay on until the cooktop has cooled down.
Q: How do I set my oven or range to self-clean?
A: To self-clean your oven, follow these simple steps:
- Remove the oven racks.
- Set your oven control to clean.
- Select a cleaning time or choose a cleaning level: light, medium, or heavy soiled. For typical cleaning needs, we recommend that you select a cleaning time of three hours or choose the medium soiled setting.
- Select Start. (To set a delayed start, see your use and care manual.)
Note: For safety reasons, the oven door will remain locked until the oven cools down. When it is sufficiently cool, the door will automatically unlock.
Q: My range door is open and in the locked position. How can I close it?
A: To close an open door when it’s in the locked position and the door is open, press and hold the oven door light switch while following these simple steps:
- Program the oven to self-clean.
- Wait 20 seconds.
- Cancel self-clean.
- Wait 20 seconds.
You should then be able to close the door.
Q: How can I clean my range grates?
A: If you have cast iron grates, follow these steps:
- Wash the grates in the dishwasher.
- Coat the grates with a thin layer of cooking oil.
- Bake the grates in the oven on 350˚F for 10 minutes.
If you have porcelain-coated grates, simply place them in the dishwasher and coat any unfinished areas with a thin layer of cooking oil after washing.
Q: How do I clean my burners/elements?
A: Keep your burner components clean by using a mild non-granular cleaner, such as ammonia or a degreaser. This will ensure that the gas ports do not get blocked. When putting the parts back together, always make sure the burners and caps are level and firmly set in place.
Q: How do I clean my ceramic smooth cooktop?
A: We recommend Frigidaire Cerama Bryte cleaner, which is specialized for cooktops.
Q: How do I keep my racks gliding smoothly?
A: To keep your oven racks gliding smoothly when you’re removing or inserting them, we recommend applying cooking oil along their outer edges.
Q: What are the differences between refrigerator models?
A: These are the differences:
- French Door models feature a two door refrigerator on top and the freezer on the bottom. The lower freezer is often accessed as a pull-out basket. Many French door models also offer filtered ice and water dispensers in the door.
- Side-by-Side models feature two doors; the freezer is on the left and the refrigerator is on the right. The simple design and makes it easy to organize and find items. Often they have ice and water dispensers in the door, and they work well when you don’t have a lot of space for the door to swing open.
- Top Freezer: Models with the freezer on top are good for smaller kitchens, offering roomy storage on wide shelves and a lower cost of operation. The direction the door opens can often be reversed to meet your specific needs.
In selecting the style for your refrigerator, you should also consider its depth and the degree of customization you would like:
- Built-In refrigerators are the most customized, and therefore the most expensive. Their doors are counter depth and can be produced with a stainless front or with cabinet fronts to blend with the rest of your kitchen’s look.
- Standard-Depth refrigerators are the most popular and least expensive models, but they may be 4 inches (or more) deeper than your cabinet and countertop, extending further into your kitchen space than your counter does.
- Counter-Depth refrigerators offer a built-in look. The refrigerator’s cabinet is as deep as your countertop, so the edge of the refrigerator is flush with your countertop. Only the doors and handles extend into your kitchen space.
Q: Why do I need an air filter in my refrigerator?
A: The air filter eliminates odors for a fresher interior.
Q: What does Real Stainless Steel mean?
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
Q: Why isn’t the ice maker making ice?
A: There are two simple things to check first:
- Be sure that the on/off switch on the ice maker is turned on.
- Check that the ice maker’s arm is in the down position.
- If your unit has been newly installed, check that the water valve located behind the refrigerator is in the open position.
- If your unit has not been installed recently, it’s possible that your water filter needs to be replaced. If this is the case, the “Replace Filter” alert light on the dispenser will be red.
Q: If my ice maker is making too much ice, how can I turn it off?
A: You can stop the ice maker from producing more ice by lifting the arm or pressing the off switch on the ice maker. Then do a quick visual check to be sure your ice bucket is directly under the ice maker, and that the ice maker’s arm is able to touch the ice in the bucket.
Q: Why is moisture developing in my refrigerator?
A: Moisture can develop when there’s high humidity, or if the refrigerator has been opened several times in a short period. The moisture should go away when conditions and use return to normal.
You should also check to be sure your refrigerator doors are closing completely. If the doors are open even slightly, warmer air from the room will enter the refrigerator and cause moisture to develop. The door should require a slight tug to open; if it doesn’t, check to see if any items on your refrigerator shelves might be preventing it from closing
Q: Why does my refrigerator run most of the time? Is this normal?
A: Today’s refrigerators are designed to be more energy efficient than previous models. This means that they run longer cycles (or run continuously) to maintain an even temperature inside with a minimum number of start-ups, since starting a unit takes about 10 times as much energy as it does to keep it running.
Q: What does it mean if the refrigerator’s display is flashing numbers or letters that I’m not familiar with?
A: These are early warnings built into the refrigerator’s electronics to notify you about a potential issue earlier than you would otherwise have known about it.:
- If the display reads DF, this simply means that the refrigerator is in defrost mode.
- If the refrigerator display shows anything other than DF, call your local service provider to help detect any potential issues.
Q: What should I do when the power comes back after an outage?
A: When electric service returns after a power outage, the refrigerator will immediately start cooling and will automatically return to factory temperature settings. Its display will read “HI” until it has reached normal safe operating temperatures. Once the temperature is below 55°F, the exact temperature will be displayed. Please allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.
Q: How can I align the doors of my side-by-side refrigerator?
A: You can find door adjustment instructions in your owner’s manual or in the product manual section of this website.
Q: How can I keep my refrigerator smelling fresh?
A: To keep the interior of your refrigerator fresh, follow these steps:
- Regularly clean your shelves with mild soapy water and dry them thoroughly.
- Cover or wrap food.
- If your refrigerator model has an air filter, we recommend that you replace it every six months.
Q: What does ENERGY STAR® qualified mean?
A: Products that are ENERGY STAR® qualified are equivalent to or better than standard products, with one important difference: they use less energy. To learn the ENERGY STAR® rating, products must meet strict energy efficiency criteria set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the U.S. Department of Energy. Because they use less energy, these products save money on your electricity bill and help protect the environment by reducing harmful emissions from power plants. Plus, you get all of the features and quality you expect.
Q: How can I tell if my appliance is ENERGY STAR® qualified?
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
Q: What are the available drying options on my dishwasher?
A: The options are:
- The Heat Dry option, in combination with a rinse aid, will enhance drying performance by using heat. The energy required to use this option costs only pennies per cycle.
- The Air Dry option relies on air rather than heat, and can result in having some items that are not completely dry at the end of the cycle. You may see water vapour coming from the vent during this drying cycle.
- The PowerPlus™ Dry cycle adds a forced air system to the Heat Dry option, and is available only on select models. When used with a rinse aid, it offers the best drying performance (based on industry standard dryability testing).
The drying option may be changed at any time during the cycle.
Q: What is the difference between a stainless steel interior and a composite plastic interior?
A: Plastic dishwasher interiors are durable, quiet, and usually less expensive than stainless steel interiors. They are usually white, but many models offer a Granite Grey tone for a more premium look.
Stainless steel dishwasher interiors are long lasting, very durable, and stain resistant. They not only offer a premium appearance, but retain heat from the wash water to aid in the drying process.
Q: What is the difference between integrated controls and controls that are on the front of the dishwasher?
A: There are two types of dishwasher controls, and the difference between them is primarily visual. A dishwasher with fully integrated controls has the control panel on the top of the door, where it will be hidden when the dishwasher is closed. Controls on the front of a dishwasher will be visible with the door closed.
Q: What does Real Stainless Steel mean?
A: Real Stainless Steel is true stainless steel that has been treated with a protective coating that reduces fingerprints and smudges, making it much easier to clean.
Q: How can I ensure the best drying results?
A: For the best drying results:
- Select the “heat dry” option.
- Use a rinse aid. Check to make sure the rinse aid dispenser is full (the clear window on the dispenser should be very dark). If the dispenser is low, remove the cap and fill the reservoir.
Some dishwater models offer a “sanitize rinse” option, which will deliver higher heat for maximum drying and NSF certification that ensures a 99.99% reduction of bacteria.
Q: Why is water in the dishwasher after it runs?
A: It’s normal to see a thin layer of water in your dishwasher after a wash cycle is done. If you’re seeing more water than that:
- Check to ensure that the drainage system is free and clear of debris.
- If your dishwasher is hooked up to a garbage disposal, run the disposal to clear the drain system.
- If you have a new garbage disposal, the “knock-out” plug might need to be removed from the disposal. (This step can occasionally be overlooked during installation.)
Q: The display shows “HO” or “Hd.” What does this mean?
A: “HO” or “Hd” means the dishwasher’s cycle time is being extended while it is heating water. At certain points in the wash cycle, the dishwasher uses hotter water to ensure a clean load of dishes. If it detects that the water is not hot enough, it will heat it.
If you’re seeing “HO” or “Hd” frequently, check the temperature of the water available to your dishwasher. It’s best to do this at the sink closest to it, allowing the hot water to run until it reaches its maximum temperature before you test it with a thermometer. For best results, water should be not less than 120°F.
Q: How do I know how much detergent to use in my dishwasher?
A: The amount of detergent you need to use depends on whether you have hard water. To determine the proper amount, consult your owner’s guide, which lists the correct amount of detergent for degree of water hardness. To determine your water hardness, contact your water supplier or have it tested by an outside source (such as a company that sells water treatment equipment).
For best results, follow these tips for detergent use:
- Make sure the detergent is fresh. When it’s old, it might not dissolve properly.
- Store detergent in a cool, dry place (under the sink is not the best location for it).
- When loading the dishwasher, be sure that the detergent dispenser can open freely and that water from the spray arm can reach the open dispenser.
- Because most detergents are designed to dissolve and activate at 120°F, your dishwasher will perform best if your water temperature is 120°F or higher at the start of a wash cycle.
Q: What does ENERGY STAR® qualified mean?
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
Q: How can I tell if my appliance is ENERGY STAR® qualified?
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
Q: Why does my freezer seem loud when it turns on?
A: Newer freezer models have greater storage capacity and a broader temperature range, both of which require a high-speed compressor. The compressor is what you hear when your freezer turns on, and it’s normal for the sound level to be higher than on older models.
Q: What does the alarm or “buzzer sound” mean?
A: On some freezer models, you might hear an alarm or a “buzzer sound” if the freezer’s temperature rises above 20˚F. If you do hear it, simply turn the Temp-Alarm off until the temperature is again below 20˚F. It’s also a good idea to check that your freezer is level, and that its door closes freely and with a proper seal. Once you close your freezer door, leave it closed so the freezer temperature can decrease.
Q: What should I do if my freezer isn’t running?
A: If your freezer is not running, it might be due to one of the following reasons:
- The control knob is turned to OFF. Simply set the knob back to ON.
- A fuse is blown in your house, or a circuit breaker is tripped. If this is the case, reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse with a 15 amp time-delay fuse.
- The power cord may not be plugged in. Check to be sure the plug fits tightly into the wall outlet. Note: Do not use an extension cord.
- A power outage has occurred. In this case, you might want to call your local electric company.
Q: How can I set my freezer to run less frequently, or for shorter intervals?
A: Follow these steps:
- Adjust the temperature setting. Set the control knob to a lower number, then allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize.
- Open the door or lid less frequently. Whenever the door or lid is opened, the warm air that enters can cause the temperature in the freezer to rise, triggering the freezer to run in order to lower it again.
- Clean or change the gasket. Leaks in the gasket seal can let warm air in, causing your freezer to run more in order to maintain the desired temperature. If your freezer gasket is dirty, worn, cracked, or poorly fitted, you should clean or change it.
Please note that it’s normal for your freezer to run more frequently if:
- It has recently been disconnected for a period of time. After being reconnected, the freezer can take up to 24 hours to completely cool down again.
- It is a larger freezer. Larger freezers will require more running time to stay cold.
- You’ve recently placed large amounts of warm or hot food in it. Warmer items in the freezer will affect its temperature, and it will run longer in order to return to your selected setting.
- The outside weather is hot, or room temperature is cold. The freezer will have to work harder under these conditions.
- The lid has been opened frequently. If warm air has been allowed in to the freezer, it will run longer in order to return to the desired temperature.
Q: What can I do if the lid on my freezer won’t close?
A: If your freezer won’t close, it might be because the lid does not tightly fit the shape of the unit. The lid is designed to be flexible, allowing it to conform to the unit. If you notice that the lid is wrapping at one corner and/or not forming a tight fit, simply raise it and allow it to close sharply—this will help reestablish a tight fit.
Q: Why is there ice inside my freezer?
A: If you see ice or frost inside your freezer, it could be because the door or lid has been opened frequently or for too long, or because the freezer needs to be defrosted. Note: In hot and humid weather, it is normal for frost to build up more quickly. Frost-free freezers should not build up ice, it should melt ice into the drop pan to warm and evaporate the frost away.
Q: What should I do if the light bulb in the freezer is off?
A: Check to see if the bulb is burned out, and if it is, replace it with an appliance bulb of the same wattage. If the bulb isn’t burned out but the light is still off, there might not be electricity running to the freezer. If this is the case, the safety signal light outside the freezer will also be off.
Q: Is it normal to hear a popping or cracking sound when the freezer motor (compressor) comes on?
A: Yes, this is normal. These sounds can be caused by the freezer’s metal parts as they expand and contract with temperature changes, or by the circulation of the refrigerant that’s used to cool the freezer. The sounds will level off or disappear entirely as your freezer continues to run.
Q: Can I make my freezer’s temperature warmer?
A:If the freezer temperature is colder than you’d like, turn the control knob to a lower number and allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize.
Q: Can I make my freezer’s temperature colder?
A: If the freezer temperature is warmer than you’d like, turn the control knob to a higher number and allow 24 hours for the temperature to stabilize.
Q: Is it normal for my freezer to make vibrating or rattling sounds?
A: If your freezer is vibrating or rattling, check the below:
- Be sure the freezer is level. If your freezer rocks on the floor when it is moved slightly, level it by adjusting the leveling legs or by using wooden shims. You should also check to be sure that the floor can adequately support your freezer.
- Check to see if the freezer is touching the wall. If so, move it slightly or re-level it.
- Remove any items that are on top of the freezer.
- Check items inside the freezer. It is normal for items inside the freezer to vibrate somewhat. If it seems they’re vibrating too much, try re-leveling the freezer or moving it slightly.
Q: What does ENERGY STAR® qualified mean?
A: Products that are ENERGY STAR® qualified are equivalent to or better than standard products, with one important difference: they use less energy. To learn the ENERGY STAR® rating, products must meet strict energy efficiency criteria set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the U.S. Department of Energy. Because they use less energy, these products save money on your electricity bill and help protect the environment by reducing harmful emissions from power plants. Plus, you get all of the features and quality you expect.
Q: How can I tell if my appliance is ENERGY STAR® qualified?
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
Q: Why is moisture forming on the outside of my freezer?
A:If the door or lid of your freezer is open slightly, it can cause the cold air from inside to meet the warm, moist outside air. This can result in moisture being produced on the outside of the freezer. High humidity can also produce the same result.
Q: What can I do if I detect an odor in my freezer?
A: Odors in your freezer can be caused by how food is stored. Some foods have a strong odor, so be sure to cover them tightly. Sometimes odors can also be caused by certain containers and wrapping materials (such as paper, foil, or plastic). If you think this might be the case, try using different containers or a different brand of wrapping material.
After you’ve checked how your food is stored, try cleaning the interior of your freezer with a sponge, warm water, and baking soda.
Q: Where can I find my washer’s model and serial number?
A: Your washer’s model and serial number can be found on the underside of the lid of most top load washers. They are located on the inside of the door of the Front Load washer. The top load washer has the serial plate on the underside of the lid. The front load washer has the serial plate located either on the inner door or the door well depending on the product. It’s always a good idea to record these numbers and the date of purchase, as well as to save your receipt.
Q: How does a front load washer differ from a standard top load washer?
A: Front load washers offer several benefits, including:
- Front load washers have no center agitator, but instead rely on tumble action to wash gently and rinse completely, helping your clothes last longer and feel fresher.
- The exact amount of water required is automatically sensed by the washer, so you only use the amount of water you need.
- The washer’s dispenser mixes detergent, softener, and bleach safely away from your clothes.
- Added capacity and efficiency produce savings of up to 82% in energy and water consumption—or up to $180 and 10,000 gallons of water a year.
- Installation options are more flexible than standard top load units, to better suit your space and needs.
Q: What does ENERGY STAR® qualified mean?
A: Products that are ENERGY STAR® qualified are equivalent to or better than standard products, with one important difference: they use less energy. To learn the ENERGY STAR® rating, products must meet strict energy efficiency criteria set by the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency or the U.S. Department of Energy. Because they use less energy, these products save money on your electricity bill and help protect the environment by reducing harmful emissions from power plants. Plus, you get all of the features and quality you expect.
Q: How can I tell if my appliance is ENERGY STAR® qualified?
A: When shopping for an appliance, it’s easy to recognize the ENERGY STAR® label that identifies qualified products. This label means that the product passed stringent standards set by the U.S. Department of Energy. Additionally, manufacturers are required to display their products’ test results on the ENERGY STAR® label. The label will tell you about the product’s efficiency level, including approximately how much energy the appliance uses, its average annual operating cost, and how its energy use compares with that of similar products.
Q: What should I do if my washer does not start?
A: If your washer does not start, it might be due to one of the following reasons:
- The wash cycle is in a pause stage. This is normal—a pause occurs between the wash and spin cycles, with a longer pause occurring during the soak cycle. Normal pauses also occur as part of the reverse tumbling action of a Front Load washer.
- The cycle selector knob is not quite to the start position. To ensure it’s correctly positioned, turn the knob or dial slightly past your desired start position, then pull it out to start the washer.
- The power cord may not be plugged in, or the connection may be loose. Check to be sure the plug fits tightly into the wall outlet. Note: Do not use an extension cord. Depending on the quality of the extension cord and the length, the power actually getting to the washer may be greatly reduced and not allow the washer to perform properly.
- The door or lid of the washer is open. For your safety, the door or lid of your washer must be completely closed for the washer to fill, tumble or agitate, and spin.
- A fuse is blown in your home, or a circuit breaker tripped. If this is the case, reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse (but do not increase the fuse capacity). If you have an overloaded circuit, contact a qualified electrician to correct it.
- The motor is overheated. Your washer’s motor will stop if it becomes overheated, then automatically restart after a cool-down period of up to 30 minutes (if the timer has not been manually turned off). If problem continues, contact us for service.
- A power outage has occurred. In this case, you might want to call your local electric company.
Q: How can I increase the flow of water to the washer?
A: If water is flowing into your washer slowly or isn’t flowing in at all, you might find a solution by checking the following:
- Hot and cold water faucets. Be sure that your water supply faucets are completely open.
- Water fill hoses. Check your water hoses to see if they might be kinked. If so, simply straighten the hoses.
- Water pressure. Your washer needs sufficient water pressure to fill. You might want to avoid running too much water elsewhere in your home while the washer is filling.
- Water supply. Turn on another faucet in your home to check the water supply in your area. You may need to wait until your water supply and pressure increase before running your washer.
- The washer door or lid. Make sure the lid or door of your Front Load washer is completely latched. For your safety, the door must be fully closed for the washer to operate.
- The dispenser drawer. Check to see that the dispenser drawer on your Front Load washer is completely closed.
- The filter on the water valve. If the filter screens on your water valve are clogged, turn off your water faucets and remove the hoses from the water valve connections. Clean the filter screens then reconnect the hoses and turn on the water. Check for any leaks at the connections and tighten if necessary.
Q: If water is entering my washer but it’s not filling up, what should I do?
A: If water is flowing into your washer, but the tub or drum does not fill, it might be due to one of the below reasons:
- The drain standpipe length To prevent siphoning off of the incoming water, the standpipe can’t be too short—it must be at least 33 inches high for a top load washer or 24 inches high for a Front Load washer. For more information, please refer to the installation instructions that came with your washer.
- The drain hose fit. If the drain hose fits too tightly in the standpipe, siphoning could result. Be sure that there is an air gap between the drain hose and the standpipe, and that the standpipe is least 1 ¼ inches in diameter.
- The drain hose pushed too far down the standpipe. The drain hose should be securely inserted into the standpipe, but not so far in that it reaches the trap area of the standpipe plumbing.
Q: If water is leaking from my washer, what should I do?
A: If water is leaking out of your washer, check the below:
- Is the drain clogged? If you have a clogged drain, it will need to be cleaned—contact a local plumber if necessary.
- Is the drain hose restricted, or out of the standpipe? If the drain hose is out of the standpipe, you’ll need to secure it. You can do this by bending the end to form a hook, placing the hooked end into the standpipe, and tying the hose to the standpipe or a faucet with a cable tie (one was supplied with the washer), strong filament tape, or duct tape.
- Is the fill hose connection loose at the faucet or washer? Check and tighten the hose connections. If they’re loose, you might need to install or replace rubber sealing washers.
- Are you using of a high-sudsing detergent, or is your water soft? Using a high-sudsing detergent, or using too much detergent in soft water, can cause suds to overflow the washer. This may seem like a leak if the suds flow or drip onto the floor. Use a low-sudsing detergent, and reduce the amount of detergent you use if your water is soft.
Q: The wash and rinse temperatures aren’t what I selected. How can I adjust that?
A: If the temperature for your wash and rinse cycles is not what you selected, check the temperature control knob. If it’s between settings, turn it until the indicator clicks into position for your desired water temperature.
You can also check to see if your hot water and cold water hoses are reversed. Run water from each faucet to check if the hoses are connected to the right supply faucets. The hot water hose should be connected to the hot faucet and to the water valve connection markedH on the washer. The other hose should be connected to the cold faucet and the water valve connection marked C on the washer.
Q: How can I increase the temperature of my washer’s hot or warm water?
A: To increase the water temperature for your washer, look into the following:
- Water heater setting. Your water heater may be set too low. Measure the hot water temperature at the washer or a nearby faucet with a thermometer. It should reach at least 120°F. If it doesn’t, adjust your water heater.
- Hot water usage elsewhere in the home. Your hot water heater may not be able to supply enough hot water for simultaneous, multiple uses. Based on the capacity of your water heater, you may need to avoid using hot water elsewhere before or during the use of your washer.
- Distance between your water heater and washer. It’s possible that water may cool as it moves through the pipes from your water heater to the washer. Try opening the hot water faucet at a nearby sink to drain cool water from the pipes before starting the washer.
- ENERGY STAR® appliances. Energy-saving washers have controls that supply cooler warm water as a means to save energy and money. These water temperatures may seem cooler than what you were used to in older, high-energy use machines; however, the washer is performing properly.
Q: The washer’s water level does not cover my laundry load. Can I adjust that?
A:For a top load washer, you can increase the water level by turning the Water Level/Load Size control to RESET and then selecting a higher level or load size.
A Front Load washer will automatically determine the proper water level for each load—you don’t have to do anything. Because of the water efficiency of this type of washer, its water level will never be above the bottom of the door.
Q:What should I do if my washer is not spinning?
A: If your washer isn’t spinning, check to be sure the lid or door is securely closed. For your safety, the washer will not spin if it’s open.
On a Front Load washer, you can also check to see whether the dispenser drawer is open—it should be completely closed.
Finally, if your load is out of balance, this might also prevent the washer from spinning. Rearrange it to allow for proper spinning, possibly adding one or two similar items to help balance a small load.
Q:How can I get my washer to drain more quickly?
A:If you washer is draining water slowly, check the following:
- The drain hose. If it’s kinked, straighten it to improve water flow to the drain.
- The drain. Be sure it’s clear and not clogged. (It needs to be able to eliminate 17 gallons of water per minute.)
- The height of the standpipe. It cannot be more than 96 inches high.
- The drain hose seal. If the drain hose has been taped (or sealed) into the standpipe, the seal should not be completely tight because the standpipe requires air for proper draining. If necessary, remove some of the tape on the seal to make an air path.
- The drain hose fit. If it fits too tightly in the standpipe, create an air gap between the drain hose and the standpipe for proper draining. The standpipe needs to be at least 1 ¼ inches in diameter.
- The amount of detergent. Using too much detergent can also inhibit draining.
- The pump. It’s possible that your pump may be clogged. If you suspect this is the case, please call your authorized servicer.
Q: My washer produces a lot of suds. How can I reduce or remove them?
A: A number of things can increase the amount of suds produced when you wash a load of laundry, including:
- Soft water. You need less detergent when the water supply is naturally soft, or chemically or mechanically softened.
- Detergent type. Your detergent should be compatible with your washer type. High efficiency (HE) detergents are recommended for Front Load Washers, and are formulated to reduce suds and ensure proper cleaning.
- Pretreated items. Because pretreatment products remain on items that go in the wash, they can add to the suds normally produced by your detergent. When using these products, simply use less than the recommended amount of detergent.
- Other laundry products. Products such as oxygen bleach can produce extra suds. Simply reduce the amount of detergent you use when you’re also using products such as an oxygen bleach.
- Detergent amount. For optimum results, follow directions for the recommended amount of detergent, with adjustments for type and amount of soil, load size, and water hardness and temperature.
You can remove excess suds by stopping the washer and advancing the cycle selector to Final Spin. Rewash the load in cold water without detergent and repeat, if necessary, until the final rinse water is clear.
Q: Is it normal for my washer to make thumping, rattling, or clanking sounds?
A: It’s normal for a heavy wash load to sometimes produce a thumping sound at the beginning of the spin cycle. If the sound does not stop, the load is likely out of balance. Simply stop the washer and rearrange the items.
Rattling or clanking sounds can be caused by belt buckles or other metal fasteners in the load. You can fasten these items and turn garments inside out to reduce the sound. Rattling or clanking might also be caused by foreign objects (such as coins or safety pins) in the tub or drum. Stop the washer and check for objects in the tub or drum. If none are present and the sound continues, an object may be in the pump and you should call for authorized service.
Q: What might cause my washer to vibrate?
A: If your washer is vibrating, it might be due to one of the reasons below:
- The load is off balance. Shut off the washer, wait for the safety lock to release, and redistribute the clothes evenly in the washer. If the load remains out of balance, simply add 1 or 2 similar items and restart the washer.
- The washer needs to be resting firmly on the floor. The washer must be level (both front to back and side to side), with each washer leg sitting solidly on the floor. A top load washer laundry center has self-leveling rear legs, which you can adjust by tipping the washer forward so that the back is about an inch off the floor, and then setting it back down. For Front Load Washers, remove the front access panel, loosen the lock nuts, turn legs in or out slightly until the washer sets solidly on the floor, then tighten the lock nuts. For maximum stability, leveling legs should not extend more than ½ inch below the washer bottom.
- The washer needs to be on a sturdy floor. Be sure the washer is installed on a hard floor—not a carpeted one. Install the washer on a section of ¾ inch plywood that has been secured to the floor joists with lag screws.
- Shipping materials are still in the washer. For a top load washer, remove the shipping bolt located at the bottom center of the washer and refer to the installation instructions that came with your washer. For a Front Load washer, remove the 3 shipping bolts, 3 yellow spacers, and 3 metal “P” clamps from the back of the washer. Make sure the foam shipping block has been removed from the bottom of the washer. On some models, you’ll also need to remove the access panel from the front of the unit, then remove the 2 yellow shipping braces and Styrofoam shipping block and replace the access panel.
Q: The lid or door of my washer won’t open. How do I open it?
A: For your safety, the lid of a top load washer cannot be opened during the spin cycle. To open it, simply stop the washer and wait 1 to 3 minutes for the safety lock to open.
On a front load washer, the door will be locked during the entire wash cycle. Before tumbling starts, you can stop the washer and then wait for the water to drain off the window before opening the door. To open the door during the spin cycle, stop the washer and wait 1 to 3 minutes for the lock to release—do not force the door open.
Q: If my clothes are too wet after the spin cycle, what can I do?
A: Clothes might seem too wet because they were rinsed in cold water. While a cold-water rinse saves energy and reduces wrinkling, it tends to leave clothes feeling wetter.
If your clothes seem wetter than they should be after the spin cycle, check the following:
- The drain hose should be straight and unclogged.
- The load might be off balance—rearrange it to allow for proper spinning.
- The load might be too big. A load of dry clothes in a top load washer should not be higher than the top row of holes in the tub; the drum of a Front Load washer should not be tightly packed (the door should close easily).
- Select a cycle with a faster spin speed (if your washer has this feature).
- It’s possible that a pump may be clogged. If so, you will need to call your authorized service provider.
Q: Is it normal for water to collect in the bleach or fabric softener compartments?
A: Yes, it is normal for a small amount of water to remain in the dispenser drawer of a Front Load washer. If you like, you can simply remove the dispenser drawer and empty the water, but it isn’t necessary.
Q: What’s the best way to clean and care for my washer?
A:For optimal care of your washer, we recommend that you follow the below guidelines:
- Promptly remove finished loads
- Clean the top and sides of the washer with a damp cloth or mild detergent and water. Be sure to avoid harsh, gritty, or abrasive cleansers.
- Leave the lid, door, and dispenser drawer open when your washer is not in use.
- To remove any odors, add 1 cup of chlorine bleach to the washer’s empty tub. Run the regular cycle using hot wash water and cold rinse water.
- Remove any interior stains with a nonabrasive household cleanser or diluted chlorine bleach (½ cup bleach to 1 quart water), then rinse well.
- After using a Front Load washer, dry the edge of the door, the flexible gasket, and the door glass.
- On a top load washer, clean the bleach and fabric softener dispensers following the instructions in your owner’s guide.
- Remove any detergent or fabric softener residue from the dispenser drawer and recess of the Front Load washer following the instructions in your owner’s guide.
- When washing heavily soiled items, shake or brush off excess dirt and sand before washing. If any remains in the tub or drum after washing, wipe it with a nonabrasive household cleanser, then rinse.
- Turn water faucets off when not in use to prevent pressure build-up in the washer’s hoses.
- For storage of your washer in cold weather conditions (where freezing can occur), follow the instructions in your owner’s guide.
Q: What water temperature should I select when washing a load of laundry?
A: When choosing your preferred water temperature, consider these basic points:
- Hot water cleans most effectively, but shouldn’t be used for all items.
- Warm water can be used for most normally soiled loads.
- Cold water is recommended for lightly soiled or brightly colored items
To compensate for cooler wash water, it may be necessary to soak or prewash heavily soiled items, increase wash time, use a liquid detergent, or use additional laundry products to boost the detergent’s cleaning power. For detergent to be activated, and for powdered detergent to dissolve, the wash water temperature must be at least 65°F.
Tip: If you prefer cold water washing, it’s recommended that you occasionally run a hot or warm water wash, because repeated use of cold water and liquid detergents may produce an odor in the washer over time.
Q: Can I do anything to help decrease wrinkles in permanent press items?
A: For best results when washing permanent press items, follow these steps:
- Use a warm-water wash to help relax wrinkles, and a cold-water rinse to reduce wrinkling during spin.
- Remove items promptly when the cycle is complete.
- Load the tub of a top load washer only as high as the top row of holes. In a Front Load washer, avoid packing items too tightly (the door should close easily).
- Try selecting a cycle with a slower or shorter final spin.
- Add liquid fabric softener to the final rinse water.
Q: Can I do anything to reduce the amount of lint?
A: Lint will occur naturally through abrasion, but you can reduce it by following these steps:
- Use the recommended amount of detergent—it traps lint during the wash cycle and holds it in suspension until it is flushed out in the rinse cycle.
- Be sure that your inlet and drain hoses are not kinked or clogged. (Adequate water pressure and proper draining help remove lint from the wash load.)
- Sort lint-producing items from lint-attracting items.
- Empty all pockets of paper and other objects.
Q: Is it possible to reduce the amount of pilling on garments?
A: Abrasion will cause pilling on synthetic fabrics and loosely woven or knitted items.
To minimize pilling:
- Sort items made of synthetic fibers from those made of natural fibers, and wash them separately.
- Turn garments inside out for washing.
- Shorten the wash time.
Q: What causes detergent residue on fabric?
A: Detergent residue is a white substance that resembles lint and can leave streaks on garments. It can be caused by any of the below:
- Powder detergent that does not dissolve.
- Using too little detergent.
- Incomplete rinsing caused by an overloaded tub or drum.
- Misuse of liquid fabric softener.
- Hard water.
- Low water pressure.
To remove detergent residue, rewash the items in the hottest water safe for the fabrics, using the recommended amount of detergent.
Q: What is the best way to preserve fabric color when washing?
A: To avoid discoloration of fabrics, it helps to be aware of the following:
- Undiluted liquid fabric softener can cause greasy stains. Rub any such stains with bar soap and then rewash the garment. Be sure to follow the instructions in your washer’s owner’s guide for using fabric softener.
- Graying or yellowing of fabric may result from using an inadequate amount of detergent, wash water temperature that is too low, or wash time that is too short.
- Sort loads according to soil level. Use the recommended amount of detergent and the hottest water safe for the fabric.
- To whiten or brighten items, use chlorine or non-chlorine bleach (if safe for the fabric) or a water conditioner.
- Yellow or brown rust stains can be caused by iron or manganese in your water supply or in your water pipes or water heater, as well as by metal fasteners on items in the load. Flush rusty water from pipes by running water into a nearby sink for a few minutes before starting the washer. Drain your water heater occasionally and consider installing an iron filter in the water supply. Remove wet loads from the washer at the end of the cycle. If you do see rust stains, remove them with a rust remover safe for fabrics—NOT with chlorine bleach, which will intensify rust stains.
- Because some fabric dyes are unstable and bleed easily, sort items carefully and wash some items separately. Follow care instructions on the fabric label.
- Be aware that color loss can be caused by ingredients found in common consumer products, such as chlorine bleach, acne medications, home permanent solutions, battery acid, household cleaners, antiperspirants, hair spray, beverages, shampoo, and toothpaste.
- Dye transfer can occur when damp colored items come in contact with each other before or after washing. Sort items carefully and wash some separately. Remove a wet load from the washer at the end of the cycle and dry it in the dryer, if possible.
Q:Where can I find my dryer’s model and serial number?
A: The dryer serial plate is located on the door of the dryer and can be seen when the door is opened. It’s always a good idea to record these numbers and the date of purchase, as well as to save your receipt.
Q: What should I do if my dryer does not start?
A:If your dryer does not start, it might be due to one of the following reasons:
- The start button needs to be pushed or turned for long enough to engage. Push or turn the Start button and hold it for two seconds.
- The cycle selector knob is not quite at the start position. To be sure it’s correctly positioned, simply turn the knob until the indicator is a little further into the cycle.
- The dryer door is open. The door must be completely closed for the dryer to run.
- The power cord may not be plugged in, or the connection may be loose. Check to be sure the plug fits tightly into the wall outlet. Note: Do not use an extension cord.
- A fuse is blown in your home, or a circuit breaker tripped. If this is the case, reset the circuit breaker or replace the fuse (but do not increase the fuse capacity). If you have an overloaded circuit, contact a qualified electrician to correct it.
- A power outage has occurred. In this case, you might want to call your local electric company.
Q: What should I do if my dryer stops operating?
A: If your dryer isn’t operating, it might be because:
- The motor is overheated. Overloading the dryer can cause its motor to overheat. If this is the case, allow the motor to cool down for 30 minutes. You might need to reduce the size of the load—the average washer load will fill the dryer drum 1/3 to 1/2 full. If letting the motor cool down and reducing the load size does not resolve the issue, contact your authorized service provider.
- The thermal limiter switch is activated. On electric dryers, a thermal limiter switch automatically turns off the motor in the unlikely event of an overheated situation. If this is the case, you’ll need to contact a service provider to replace the thermal limiter switch.
Q: My dryer takes a long time to dry a load of clothes. Can I do anything about this?
A: If your dryer seems to be taking too long to dry your load, check the following:
- Clean the lint screen after every use. You can also periodically wash the lint screen in warm, soapy water to remove any residue, then dry it thoroughly before replacing. Note: Do not operate the dryer without the lint screen in place, as this could damage it.
- Check the cycle or temperature setting. If the Air Fluff cycle or temperature is selected, the dryer will tumble without heat. Generally you’ll want to select low or medium heat, and the Normal Dry setting. Select More Dry for loads requiring more time. A medium or low heat setting is safe for permanent press, delicate, and knit items, but will require longer drying periods.
- Clean the exhaust duct. Be sure the exhaust duct is not clogged. If the problem persists, consider having it cleaned by a qualified service provider. Note: To avoid the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning, never operate a gas dryer without an exhaust duct that vents outdoors.
- Check the placement of the exhaust duct. Refer to the installation instructions for the appropriate length, number of bends, and other specifications. Important: Do not use plastic flexible duct or metal foil duct.
- Check the size of the exhaust duct. Be sure to use an exhaust duct that is large enough—the minimum required diameter is 4 inches.
- Be sure the exhaust hood isn’t blocked. Use an approved vent hood with a swing-out damper that opens when the dryer is in operation and closes automatically when the dryer stops. Do not attach a screen over the vent hood opening, and maintain a minimum clearance of 12 inches between the bottom of the vent hood and the ground.
- Check for adequate ventilation. If your dryer is installed in a closet or under a counter, it might not be getting the ventilation needed for proper drying.
- Be sure you’re connected to a 240 volt circuit. An electric dryer that is connected to a 208 volt circuit will require 20% more drying time.
- Dry a load that’s not too big or too small. If your dryer is overloaded or too empty, it will take longer to dry your clothes. Items need room to tumble freely in order to dry well, and you also need enough items in the drum for proper tumbling.
- Sort the items you’re drying. Dry items of similar fabric and weight in the same load.
- Take humidity into account. Drying times will be longer in areas where humidity is high. You can use a dehumidifier near the dryer if needed.
- Check the dryer’s moisture sensor bars. To locate the moisture sensor bars, please refer to the Use and Care Manual.
- Fabric softener sheets can leave a residue on the moisture sensor bars in the dryer, which can inhibit their ability to accurately sense wet clothes. Remove the residue by wiping the moisture sensor bars with rubbing alcohol.
Q: My dryer is running, but does not seem to be heating. What should I do?
A: There are two house circuits or fuses in an electric dryer’s circuit. If one of these is tripped or blown, the drum may turn but the heater will not operate and you’ll need to reset the circuit breaker or replace the house fuse.
Additionally, you can check the following:
- Cycle or temperature setting. Check the cycle selector—if the Air Fluff cycle or temperature is selected, the dryer will tumble without heat.
- Outlet wiring. Have a qualified electrician verify that the voltage being supplied is correct at 240v.
- Gas supply valve. Be sure the gas supply valve to a gas dryer is open. (See Installation Instructions for details.)
- Gas supply tank. If you have a gas dryer and your LP gas tank is empty, refill or replace the tank. If there has been an interruption in the natural gas supply, call your natural gas company.
- Air supply around a gas dryer. The dryer needs space around it for proper ventilation to support the gas burner. Do not stack or place laundry or rugs against the front or back of the dryer. To install a dryer in a closet or alcove, please refer to the Installation Instructions.
Q: The dryer’s cycle selector knob does not appear to advance during the cycle. Is this normal?
A: Yes, this is normal. At the beginning of an Auto Dry cycle, it might appear that the cycle selector knob is not advancing. However, as the cycle continues and the load dries, the knob will advance faster.
Q: If my dryer is making rattling or clanking sounds, what should I check?
A: The rattling or clanking sound in your dryer might be caused by foreign objects in the drum (such as coins or safety pins). Stop the dryer and check for any objects.
These sounds can also be caused by belt buckles or other metal fasteners on items in the load. Fastening any buckles or similar items and turning garments inside out will help to reduce the sound and protect the dryer’s drum.
Finally, check that your dryer is in a level position and is sitting evenly on all sides—from front to back, and side to side.
Q: Can I do anything to help decrease wrinkles in permanent press items?
A: For best results when drying permanent press items, follow these steps:
- Load the drum so that it’s 1/3 to 1/2 full. To decrease wrinkling, clothes need room to tumble freely.
- Select the appropriate cycle setting and temperature. Use the Permanent Press cycle and follow fabric care labels for proper temperature setting. Generally you’ll want to select low or medium heat, and the Normal Dry setting. Select More Dry for loads requiring more time, and Less Dry if you want the load to be damp dry for ironing. Additionally, some dryer models offer the Press Saver feature, which is an extended Cool Down with periodic signals to remind you to remove the load.
- Remove items from the dryer when the cycle is done. As soon as the cycle is complete, hang or fold your items. To remove wrinkles from clean, dry clothes, select the Refresher cycle (available on some models) or tumble on low heat for 10 to 15 minutes.
- Clean the lint screen after every use.
- Add a fabric softener sheet to the load.
Q: My clothes seem to be over-dried. How can I prevent this?
A: To prevent over-drying of clothes, simply be sure to select the appropriate cycle and temperature setting. Try using the Auto Dry cycle instead of a Timed Dry cycle, and follow care instructions on the fabric labels.
Q: What can cause greasy marks on items that have been dried?
A: Sometimes fabric softener sheets added to the dryer can cause a greasy mark on fabrics. For best results, follow these suggestions when using fabric softener sheets:
- Place the fabric softener sheet on top of the load at the start of the cycle.
- Do not add a softener sheet to a warm load.
- Discard the softener sheet after each cycle.
- Do not use fabric softener on children’s sleepwear or other garments labeled flame resistant—it may reduce flame resistance.
To remove any fabric softener stains, rub them with bar soap and rewash them in warm water.
If you have any questions that we don’t mention here or are looking to schedule an appointment, head over to our contact page and fill out the form or give us a call today!